Thursday 3 March 2016

0436 El Chorro and on to Archez


MONDAY  29th February 2016
Gorges, dams, and good friends – But remember, Spain closes on Mondays !!!

Despite being packed in to the camp site like sardines by all the late arrivals, I slept well, and once I woke up I decided to get on the road early so I could explore the area and fit a walk in before heading down to the coast to friends Pete and Astrid where I was to stay for a couple of days.  While I was having my breakfast I wandered over onto the dam bridge to watch the morning sun as it started to light up the tops of the surrounding hills. The hydro electric station was right there, and the trees beside the river hid the camping area from view. It was a perfect position for a wild camp.


I
drove out by 8 am, and went slowly along the twisty little road that lead to the end of the gorge.  The Rio Guadalhorce dam and hydro electric plant was completed at the site of the Garganta del Chorro gorge in 1906, but floods and fire caused major disruptions, and finally, after many financial problems power supply resumed, and a dam was built to minimize the effects of seasonal water supply variations.  A railway had been built through the gorge in 1866, and this eventually enabled the El Chorro Dam to be built, even though cement supplies were severely limited during WW I.  In 1921 this was opened by King Alfonso XII, and at this time the walkway built along the cliffs through the gorge, The Caminito del Rey – The Little Path of the King. My plan was to walk along El Caminito del Rey.

I stopped at the end of the gorge and took some photos of the early morning sun on the incredible walkway suspended along the sheer rock !  I spent quite a lot of time looking at it through binoculars as well as photographing this incredibly piece of engineering and history, and then drove on along the lanes and up into the hills to Bobastro where I understood there was a 9th C hilltop hideaway of Omar ibn Hafsun, a kind of Islamic Robin Hood who led a
prolonged revolt against Cordoban rule. At one time Ibn Hafsun controlled territory all the way along the south coast of Spain, from Gibraltar to Cartagena. As I wound up the hills, the views in the early morning light were stunning, and it was with some surprise that I found a Bar when I got to the top !  It was only at 600 m ASL, but it felt like I was 3000 m up with the views.  I even had a clear view straight down onto the dam, El Chorro town, and also the camp site where I had spent the night. 


Even more amazing was the big reservoir perched on the very top of the mountain – It looked incredible because the edges of the water just dropped down into the valleys below – Like those Infinity swimming pools with glass sides that just appear to hang there.  On the way down the hill I went to Bobastro, Ibn Hafsun’s place – But of course today was Monday, so like much of Spain, it was closed !!   So I wandered on down the mountain, and parked down near the restaurant near the start of the walk. Got changed into my walking gear along with water and some munchies, and set off through the tunnel - 2.5 kms, the sign said, which wouldn’t be too bad even if the path was steep.

For maybe 2 kms the path wandered through the forest, up above the Rio Guadalhorce, and I had good views back to the El Chorro dam that I had driven across yesterday.  There were quite a lot of caves and cave-houses visible – Apparently the area had many people living in caves in the past – El Chorro has been populated since prehistoric times.  As we got nearer to the gorge entrance, we dropped down beside the river, turned the corner……and there are fences everywhere and a guard house.  And a guard.  Sorry – Closed on Mondays !!   Grrrrr.  It seems like half of Spain closes on Mondays, so I suggest people who come to Spain, avoid Mondays, or sleep through it ! I wish they would put up signs at the beginning of the walk telling you that it is closed on Mondays so you didn't have to walk for an hour before finding out !

So I, along with a couple of other people headed back, taking a different route for a change.  This was quite interesting in itself, with a tunnel cars could fit through, and then near the end there was a 200 metre long tunnel that was only about 6 ft high and 6 ft wide – And pitch black inside !  Luckily the ground was reasonably level, but it was interesting !  From the other end it was only a short walk down the road back to the car.  Disappointed about the Caminito del Rey, but in hindsight the entire walk would have been about 14 kms long there and back, so it would have taken more than a couple of hours !  On my next visit to Malaga……. !!

From the car park I drove out past the turquoise lakes, and down towards Malaga, stopping in Alora for some bread for lunch. I drove into this little town, along streets just wide enough for Troopie, and eventually found a fresh panaderia, with fresh loaves, and after buying one, continued on my way.  I found out later that Alora was already occupied in pre-historic times, the Phoenicians discovered the commercial potential of the area and built the foundations of the castle, which the Romans later took advantage of by fortifying.  It was even a stronghold of the rebel Ibn Hafsun whose base I had tried to see earlier this morning at Babastro.  Lot of history round here, and it is all too easy to take it for granted. 

From there it was down past the high rises of Malaga and east along the coast about 30 kms to Algorrobo, where I turned inland. Pete had given me excellent directions, and that was lucky because the roads up into the hills get twistier, narrower, and steeper, and without good directions it might take a while to find one’s destination !  The mountains to the north, the Sierra de Tejeda, had a reasonable covering of snow after the last couple of cold nights – The peak Maroma is 2065 m ASL.  I wound my way up into the hills for about 40 minutes, finally reaching Pete and Astrid’s house just outside Archez.  Their drive is so steep that it is definitely a first gear proposition, and the hairpin bend half way up had me only just getting round without a second bite !   Once successfully at the top (apart from snagging their washing line on my roof top annex - Whoops, sorry guys !!), it was good to see Pete and Astrid again, and see them in their own home.

After a good chat and a beer or two, we headed off down into Archez to their local restaurant where we met another friend, Ian, and had a very pleasant evening catching up, eating good steak and prawns, and drinking good local wine.  A very pleasant evening which lasted well past my usual bedtime, and when I finally got to bed, it didn’t take me very long to fall asleep.  It had been yet another incredible day of adventures, ending up with a good meal with good friends – How can you beat that ? 

And it was a Monday !!  Imagine how good it would be in a Tuesday !!







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