27th Feb 2016
Cold, wet, snow, hail, and
some incredible Roman Ruins !
Last night was cold. In fact, it was the first night I actually
used two sleeping bags, and I was then as warm as toast. Maybe the “downstairs” bedroom is colder than
“upstairs” !! This morning was cold too
– But at least the rain seemed to have gone, so much better than
yesterday. Why had I stopped in Merida
yesterday ? Because it was a convenient
place to stop, that’s all. But on the
way back from the shower this morning I chatted with a German guy who did part
of the S America adventure a few years ago, and he said Merida had some
fantastic Roman Ruins (amazing what you learn on the way back from the shower
!) Apart from the German and I, everyone
else in the campsite wad Dutch – About 20 motorhomes – So I asked one of them
if they were on a group tour – Answer, Yes.
20 Dutch motorhomes having a month in Spain, and all travelling together
to an itinerary. Hmmmmm !!
I eventually got packed up
and topped off with water, and headed into Merida to try to find these Roman
Ruins. In driving through the streets, I
found a Roman Bridge across the river Guadiana – The Puente Romano – But was
not able to drive across it – I had to use another bridge – So I then parked at
the far end of it and went for a ‘splore.
It was FREEZING ! I had luckily put full thermals on this
morning, and I needed them ! The sun was
out, but the wind was bitter. Nevertheless
I set off across the bridge – 792 m long, with 60 granite arches
it is one of
the longest bridges ever built by the Romans. I could see some more ruins on
the far side, so went the whole way across, only to find that the Alcazaba
needed money to enter, and I had left my wallet in the car ! Never mind – The Alcazaba is a large Muslim
Fort that was built in AD 835 on a site already occupied by the Romans and
Visigoths, and part is still used today as local regional offices. A statue of Romulus and Remus and the Wolf was
in the roundabout outside – Further evidence (if any was needed) of the
presence of the Romans in this area.
From the bridge I worked my
way through the narrow streets of the city until I reached the Teatro Romano,
and the accompanying Anfiteatro. It took
me a few times round the city taking wrong turning’s, but eventually I made it
and found a free parking spot in a nearby street. I first of all went into the Amphitheatre, and
this is in amazing condition, and together with excellent signs and drawings,
it was easy to imagine the crowds in there watching the Gladiatorial battles.
It was built in 8 BC, and had a capacity of 14,000, and many of the seats,
tunnels, and access ways are clearly visible today – Very impressive.
Then right next door is the
Theatre – You walk through a couple of archways and you are there – I wonder if
the plays were ever interrupted by the bloodthirsty crowd in the Amphitheatre
yelling “Kill him, kill him” !!! This was built in 15 BC, and once again is in
good enough condition to be able to easily imagine how it must have looked in
its heyday - The columns, statues, and archways have either survived or been
renovated well enough to enable one to almost imagine one was there. A photo showing it in 1915 when it was first
being excavated shows it to be in very similar condition to today. Behind the theatre are Roman Gardens and also
baths, so this was quite a complex in its day.
I was most impressed by it all and thoroughly enjoyed the 3 or so hours
I spent there.
Then it was back on the road
towards Cordoba, via a bread shop so I could make some lunch, and passing the
local bull ring as I left town, and then off to the south west. It had been dry but cold, but the drive for
the next few hours had everything – Rain, sleet, hail, snow, and all the time
cold – about 5- 6 deg C all day ! The
first part of the drive was pretty uneventful, but then we came to the little
town of Penarroya-Pueblanueva, and there were mining shafts and towers
everywhere. Most seemed to be shut down, one was even for sale, and I found out
later that it is mainly an anthracite and bituminous coal mining area, along
with iron, silver, and lead, while local factories produce soap, paper and
chemicals, as well as an iron foundry. But it all looked a bit run down and
deserted to me……..
Straight after I passed the
town it started to snow / sleet, and for a few moments it was quite heavy
! But it cleared away almost as quickly
as it had started. By now we were into
hillier country, and the farming and olive trees of the past scenery suddenly
changed to rolling wooded hills, and we started to climb. The clouds continued to be very threatening,
and it was eerie to see the rain (snow?) falling over the hills in the distance
as we drove through. Then suddenly we
dropped down out of the hills and into Cordoba, I as it was already 5.30 pm, I
went straight to the camp site – I will explore Cordoba tomorrow morning – More
Roman Ruins, I believe !
An interesting day, with once
again lots of surprises along the way, although I thought it would be warming
up a little by now ! The weather this
year is being really weird all over Europe, so I guess I will just keep heading
south and hoping it warms up soon !
it is one of
the longest bridges ever built by the Romans. I could see some more ruins on
the far side, so went the whole way across, only to find that the Alcazaba
needed money to enter, and I had left my wallet in the car ! Never mind – The Alcazaba is a large Muslim
Fort that was built in AD 835 on a site already occupied by the Romans and
Visigoths, and part is still used today as local regional offices. A statue of Romulus and Remus and the Wolf was
in the roundabout outside – Further evidence (if any was needed) of the
presence of the Romans in this area. 
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