Wednesday 9 September 2015

0351 Kabli Estonia to Riga Latvia


8th September 2015
Troopie is fixed, and we find yet another jewel of a city in Riga.

It rained all night last night, heavily at times, but by the time we woke up it had stopped, and there were even glimpses of blue sky in the distance.  We didn’t get our hopes up too far but nevertheless, it was better than yesterday !!  While Janet was cooking some supper, I had tried to syphon the petrol out of the diesel tank, and I successfully got about 9 litres out that smelled like petrol – But was it all petrol or partly diesel ?  Does petrol mix with diesel, or does it float on the surface, like water ?  I knew there were still about another 15 litres in the tank, so until I could get about this amount out, I was unwilling to use that tank. And try as I might, I just couldn’t suck any more out – Got several mouthfuls – And those of you who have syphoned fuel before know what fun THAT is !!!  And it was far too wet on the ground to get under the car to see if there was any kind of drain plug – Hmm – Needs more thinking…….

So we set of down through the little town of Kabli on the quiet little Baltic coast road, and stopped just up the road at the bakery for some bread (and a fresh, hot, sticky bun !)  Then we continued, past a statue of a wooden boat – Apparently this area has been a major builder of ocean going wooden boats and ships for a long time.  We passed some pedestrians on the road, and then Janet suddenly said “Did that sign say “Latvia” ?  Have we crossed the border ?”.  As the sign actually said “Latvija” my mind was actually still processing the information, but I
suddenly realized the flags, camera, and sign added together equaled “Border” !!   So we did a U turn and went back to check, and sure enough, it was the border between Estonia and Latvia !  So we took photos or everything, and wondered what the KGB officer manning the secret road side cameras was thinking when he saw us cross the border twice in 3 minutes !  But no one leapt out at us with an AK47, although those pedestrians did look at us a bit oddly when we passed them for a 3rd time !!  Hey ho, we are in Latvia !

Shortly afterwards we got pushed out onto the busy main road again, and we now found that Latvian drivers are a LOT more aggressive on the road than anyone we have seen since probably Columbia in S America !  On a two lane highway, one is expected to drive in the ditch (well into a cycle lane) so that others can overtake you even though there is a line of vehicles coming the other way !!  And if you don’t move over enough, they come SO close to you that you HAVE to move over further.  OK, so if that was the way they want to play it………

We carried on towards Riga – And on passing a village mechanics shop I thought about stopping to see if they could help me solve my fuel problem, but decided instead to see if there was a Toyota dealer in Riga.  Eventually in one of the outlying suburbs of Riga we passed a Toyota dealer right by the road, so went in there, and they said that there were no drain plugs in a Landcruiser, so they had to pressurize the tank and blow it out through the fuel lines, and they could not do that until tomorrow.  Hmmmm. (By the way, English is not so widespread here – Only one guy in the dealership spoke good English.)  So I went outside to the car, wondering what to do, and as the ground was dry here, I crawled underneath and checked the tank – I saw what looked very like a drain plug to me !   So I went back in and grabbed Andris, my English speaking friend, and took him out and showed him – And he was duly surprised. He then got a mechanic to double check, and he agreed it was a drain plug – And they then agreed they could help me straight away !  So they gave us a voucher for a free coffee in their coffee shop, and half an hour later they had drained all the fuel out, and I was set to go.  Perfect.  Once again the Toyota dealers around the world have given my good and fast service. 

So on we went towards Riga, and it was rapidly become very reminiscent to me of Russia and Sakhalin Island.  Wide roads, trolley buses and (old style) trams in grassed sections beside the road, shops that look like normal apartment buildings, and increasingly dark and austere buildings beside the road, several with very Soviet architecture.  In fact we saw one that is exactly like the 6 or 7 Stalin buildings (as they call them in Moscow), and I later found out that it is the Riga Academy of Science, although I need to check on that !

We saw a sign saying “Information 8 kms” and we tried to follow these, although it wasn’t always easy as we got into smaller and narrower streets as we got close to the centre.  Finally we found it – And by this time we were eight in the middle of town, and in a dead end – faced with “pedestrians and cyclists only” signs.  So we parked – But it appeared to be a restricted area, so we checked with the waiter in a nearby bar, and when he saw our Aussie number plate he laughed and said “You can park anywhere – they will never touch you or fine you !”  So we left the car there, right beside St Peter’s Church, and set off to explore.

What a fantastic town !  This almost puts Tallinn in the shade. Narrow cobbled streets, amazing squares and buildings like The House of Blackheads (!), St Peter’s itself with its unique spire, and just a very beautiful feeling there.  Riga is yet another place that we had no preconceived ideas about, and yet turns out to be an absolute gem.   So after we had wandered for an hour or more, we decided to go and find somewhere to sleep, and then explore properly tomorrow – We had checked the weather forecast and it said it would be relatively
fine.  So we set off across the Vansu Bridge that crosses the wide Daugava river that flows through town, and just on the other side is a camp site – Perfect.  Not the most amazing camp site, but it had all facilities and was close to town, which is all we need.   And it wasn’t raining !

So we set up for the night, and read the tourist brochures we had collected today so we could plan our wanderings tomorrow.  Riga certainly looks like a fascinating city.

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