The time has come to close this blog, and start a new one for the next part of my adventure. This blog has covered the past 10 months in Europe and N Africa, and I hope I have managed to convey some of the fun we have had over here, not only exploring new places, but also previously visited ones, and more importantly the pleasure of spending some time with close friends and family who I see rarely.
My new blog starts effective immediately and can be found at http://qthelongwayhome.blogspot.com
So please bookmark this address now so you don't lose me and can continue to share my adventures with me. They promise to be exciting ones - Iceland in April where I am hoping to see the Aurora Borealis, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland in May, Niagara, and then crossing Canada back to the beautiful Rocky Mountains, and finally to Alaska in about August where I hope to see bears fishing for salmon in the rivers and moose with a full rack ! My mouth is already watering at the prospect of all this !!
If you wonder why I have the letter "q" at the beginning of my new blog address, or why I leave "e" or other letters of my other blog addresses, it is because it is often hard to get the name you want for a blog - A bit like when you try to get a new email address and they keep saying "Not available". But by putting in a "q", or leaving out an "e", you can often get the rest of the name you want !
So in closing this blog, thank you all for being there and supporting us and sharing our adventures for the past few months - If you have enjoyed it even a tenth as much as we have, then you have had fun ! See you "on the long way home" !!
My other blogs, in case you have lost them ! :-
http://elsiefrombottomtotop.blogspot.com Around America and to the Arctic in my Lotus in 2012
http://imgoingonanadventur.blogspot.com Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in 2014 / 2015
http://explorineurope.blogspot.com Europe and North Africa in 2015 / 2016
http://qthelongwayhome.blogspot.com Iceland, Newfoundland, and back to Alaska in 2016
Monday, 28 March 2016
Sunday, 27 March 2016
0442 Around UK during March
March 2016
Funerals, friends, and family
Since arriving back in the UK in mid March, I have been running around the SW of England. I only have a month or so until I ship the car so I wanted to spend some time with some long-time friends (not allowed to call people "old friends" anymore !), and generally take time to prepare everything for the next stage of my trip.
Funerals, friends, and family
Since arriving back in the UK in mid March, I have been running around the SW of England. I only have a month or so until I ship the car so I wanted to spend some time with some long-time friends (not allowed to call people "old friends" anymore !), and generally take time to prepare everything for the next stage of my trip.
Wednesday, 16 March 2016
0441 Bordeaux to Cherbourg and UK
11th
& 12th March 2016
Pretty boring
driving, really……
Not the most
exciting day of the trip – Basically I just drove up through France, and much
of the day was on toll-free freeways that did little to excite one
scenically. But the purpose of the day
was to get as far north as I could so that Cherbourg would be within easy reach
tomorrow.
Friday, 11 March 2016
0440 Near Teruel, and through the Pyrenees to Bordeaux
10th
March 2016
Mountains, snow,
skiing........ and car problems !
What an amazing
day – One that makes trips like this so worthwhile and full of memories that
will last for ever.
I woke up in my
little gorge, the temperature right on freezing, and slowly packed up while
having my breakfast. It really had been a perfect spot – Quiet, scenic – And
best of all, free ! As I drove through
the rest of the little gorge, past some great rock formations, and then into
the little village of Villel, there was quite a lot of evidence of some snow
last night – A few cars coming towards me had several inches on their
roofs. I knew it had been cold !
Thursday, 10 March 2016
0439 Albir Lighthouse, then heading North
6th-9th
March 2016
A lighthouse
walk, work on car, then N. to Teruel
Sunday 6th March
was sunny, but very windy, but since we had chores to do tomorrow, Jill decided
we needed some exercise so took me down into Albir where we went for a 2.5 km
walk out around the headland to the Albir lighthouse. The views back into the bay are superb, and
apart from nearly getting blown off the path, it was a really good walk. Many locals do it, especially on the weekend,
so there were plenty of people on the trail.
Friday, 4 March 2016
0438 A climb up to Confrides Castle
4th
March 2016
A hike in the
hills on a sunny day
Jill belongs to a
group who go walking around the area where she lives, and as Friday is a
walking day, I joined in. We met up in a
car park down in Albea – The others are all regulars so after introducing
myself we headed off in a convoy to drive up to the hills. Confrides Castle is also called Benifato
Castle, as well as Alfofra Castle – Each are towns below the castle that lay
claim to naming the castle ! It is a
Moorish Castle, probably built in about 1000 AD. Despite the Spanish taking
control of much of the area in the 13th C, the village of Confrides
(and other nearby villages) remained in Arab hands until the 17th C.
We climbed into the hills to find out what was left of it.
Thursday, 3 March 2016
0437 Archez, and then on to La Nucia
1st
& 2nd Feb 2016
Exploring in the
hills, Top Tapas, and endless plastic greenhouses
It had been a
late night last night, and it was a late morning this morning ! But it was a lovely sunny morning, although
the wind was blowing a bit hard so as I hung my washing out on the line I was a
bit worried some might end up in the pool !
But by the time we had finished breakfast (with some great local fruit
and strawberries - And a perfect boiled egg !) not only were all my clothes still on the line, but it was already
dry ! We chatted and drank coffee and
generally recovered from a late night, and it was after noon by the time we set
off in the car so Pete and Astrid could show me around their local hills.
0436 El Chorro and on to Archez
MONDAY 29th February 2016
Gorges, dams, and good friends –
But remember, Spain closes on Mondays !!!
Despite being
packed in to the camp site like sardines by all the late arrivals, I slept
well, and once I woke up I decided to get on the road early so I could explore the
area and fit a walk in before heading down to the coast to friends Pete and
Astrid where I was to stay for a couple of days. While I was having my breakfast I wandered
over onto the dam bridge to watch the morning sun as it started to light up the
tops of the surrounding hills. The hydro electric station was right there, and
the trees beside the river hid the camping area from view. It was a perfect
position for a wild camp.
Monday, 29 February 2016
0435 Cordoba to El Chorro
Sun 28th
Feb 2016
Crowded Cordoba,
and then some mountains !
Got up ready to
head into Cordoba, with the guide books all raving about it. It hadn’t rained
during the night, and looked reasonably fine this morning, although it was
still cold !I headed into town, trying to get as close as I could to the Old
City and its Mosque, the Mezquita. After
a couple of false starts, I eventually found some free parking that was
seemingly right opposite the area I wanted to get to, so I then set off on
foot.
Sunday, 28 February 2016
0434 Merida to Cordoba
27th Feb 2016
Cold, wet, snow, hail, and
some incredible Roman Ruins !
Last night was cold. In fact, it was the first night I actually
used two sleeping bags, and I was then as warm as toast. Maybe the “downstairs” bedroom is colder than
“upstairs” !! This morning was cold too
– But at least the rain seemed to have gone, so much better than
yesterday. Why had I stopped in Merida
yesterday ? Because it was a convenient
place to stop, that’s all. But on the
way back from the shower this morning I chatted with a German guy who did part
of the S America adventure a few years ago, and he said Merida had some
fantastic Roman Ruins (amazing what you learn on the way back from the shower
!) Apart from the German and I, everyone
else in the campsite wad Dutch – About 20 motorhomes – So I asked one of them
if they were on a group tour – Answer, Yes.
20 Dutch motorhomes having a month in Spain, and all travelling together
to an itinerary. Hmmmmm !!
Friday, 26 February 2016
0433 Lisbon to Merida in the Rain
26th Feb 2016
Janet flies back to Aus, and
I head off in the rain.
With Janet’s flight back to
Aus leaving at a sensible time (1.30 pm), we had time for a leisurely breakfast
– Luckily I packed everything in the car before breakfast, because by the time
we were ready to leave, it was POURING !
How lucky were we to have had a dry day yesterday for exploring Lisbon
? We left slightly earlier than planned
(we were told 15 minutes was plenty of time to get to the airport), and it was
lucky we did – The freeway to the airport was solid almost the whole way –
Crawling at best ! Whether it was because of the rain or an accident, I am not
sure, but eventually we got through the mess and arrived there just about on
time. Still raining, so I dropped Janet off and then waited just up the road
until she texted me that she was checked in and through, and then I headed out
in an easterly direction.
Thursday, 25 February 2016
0431 Estoril to Lisbon, via Sintra
24th Feb 2016
Sintra is an amazing town !
It was pretty miserable in Estoril, with rain showers and cool weather,
so after we had packed up we moved up to the restaurant where they had good
coffee and good wifi ! We were only
planning the short drive into Lisbon today, so there was no hurry, although
looking in the guide books it sounded as though the little town of Sintra up in
the hills looked interesting, so we planned a short detour there en route. But with the rain continuing, we ended up
staying in the restaurant and eventually had our lunch there before setting
off. On the way up to Sintra we passed
the local F1 (cars and bikes) race track at Estoril – Couldn’t see much due to
fencing but it nestles in the hills above Estoril and seems quite an undulating
track – I will have to pay more attention next time a race from there is on the
TV !
Wednesday, 24 February 2016
0430 Evora, and on to Estoril
22nd & 23rd Feb
2016
A slaughterhouse, human bones, a Roman
Aqueduct, and 7000 year old stones !
And if that isn’t enough to keep you going
for half an hour or so, I don’t know what is !!
A cool but sunny day in Evora for us to
spend the day wandering. We tried to do
wifi again but it was S-O S-L-O-W we gave up, and instead got a few chores done
(like laundry, and even cleaning part of the car !), and decided to walk into
town – About 2 kms. There was a bus, but
it didn’t seem to be there when we wanted it, so we walked. Evora, (apart from being the model of a Lotus
!) has quite a history and is known as one of the most impressive and enjoyable
cities in Portugal, with Roman ruins from the 2nd C AD, and Moorish
influence soon after.
0429 Ourique to Evora
21st Feb 2016
A late start, then a surprise
castle
If I have said this once, I
must have said it a hundred times – It never ceases to amaze me how surprise
things turn up just when you don’t expect them, and they turn out to be better
than anything you could have planned !
Well, it happened again today. Woke
up to a sunny but chilly morning in the most relaxing campsite we have been in
for a while, and with only about half a dozen other cars there, made it even
better. We weren’t sure whether we would
stay 2 days, so made a late start, but in the end decided to drive just 120 kms
north to a place called Evora which sounded pretty promising in the books. And since the Evora is also a model of Lotus,
I had to go there, didn’t I ? !! So we
eventually left about noon, and started wandering north. Nothing planned, so there was no hurry.
Sunday, 21 February 2016
0428 Faro to Ourique
20th
Feb 2016
The Algarve
fades, and we head into the peaceful countryside
The sad campsite
in Faro didn’t look a lot better in the morning, although at least all the
facilities and their wifi worked ! We
packed up and went for drive down the
beach – Very pleasant, although a bit windy and cold at this time.
Several people
were beach fishing, and a few others were surfing. The rest were well rugged up and just
enjoying a morning walk down the sandy beach. We then headed out of Faro,
planning to wander along the beaches of the Algarve coastline.
Friday, 19 February 2016
0427 Huelva Spain to Faro Portugal
Friday 19th
Feb 2016
Our first taste
of the Algarve, and it is gorgeous !
The Huelva camp
site was mostly permanent caravans – People who leave their vans there all
year, have an annex and even a separate kitchen set up, and also have a shade
cloth roof over the top to keep everything a bit cooler in summer. It was also very wet – They had also had a
lot of rain last night, like we did in Seville. And being sandy, it was a bit
mucky. But the showers were hot, and
there were seats on the toilets, and it had some of the fastest wifi I have seen
n 2 months – I was so busy downloading I almost didn’t have time for supper
!! So life was OK. Bit of a late wake up and departure, but as
they also had nice bread rolls for sale at the restaurant, we set off down the
road munching on warm fresh bread.
Yummmm. (Shame I couldn’t reach
the Vegemite from the driver’s seat !)
Thursday, 18 February 2016
0426 Seville, then on to Huelva
18th
Feb 2016
Bus rides, Tapas
bars, and Bull Rings
It poured with
rain in the middle of the night – Well, 4.05 am to be precise ! Yesterday evening I came down with a sudden
cold and hadn’t been sleeping too well when I heard the pitter patter of rain
drops on the roof. Not a big deal – But
we had been assured last night that it wouldn’t rain, so we hadn’t put up our
wet-weather flysheet, nor had I tilted the rear awning down slightly at a
corner so that rain didn’t collect in the roof.
So I was up and dancing around in the rain sorting things out, while Janet, who had taken a knock-out
sleeping pill last night, combined with ear plugs and an eye mask, hardly
stirred from her slumbers ! I got it
done without getting too wet, but climbing around on spare wheels etc in the
dark in the middle of the night is not a lot of fun – Which is why we usually
put the fly sheet up when we are setting up !!
Long and short is that we didn’t really surface till 9 am, and it was 11
am by the time we headed down the road, still under overcast skies. “Let’s skip Seville”, we agreed.
Wednesday, 17 February 2016
0425 Tarifa to Seville, via Cadiz
17th
Feb 2016
A day exploring
Cadiz
BEING WRITTEN AT THE MOMENT !
But pics are here :- https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/0425TarifaViaCadizToSeville?authkey=Gv1sRgCNSwksj_isCphQE
But pics are here :- https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/0425TarifaViaCadizToSeville?authkey=Gv1sRgCNSwksj_isCphQE
Tuesday, 16 February 2016
0424 A Day in (on ?) Gibraltar
16th
Feb 2016
The Rock – What
an amazing place !!!!
We were only
camped about 25 kms from Gibraltar last night, so the plan was to go and have a
quick look before heading west towards Portugal. Janet was there 40 something years ago, and I
had never been there, so we wanted to see it.
My mental impression was that it was supposed to be just a rock with
Apes on it sticking out into the Straits, and although we hadn’t seen much of
it in the haze 3 weeks ago when we caught the ferry to Morocco, and last night
coming back from Morocco it had been dark, but I already realized it wasn’t
just a conical rock like I imagined, but
quite long and bigger than I had always pictured in my mind. We had been late
arriving last night, and hadn’t slept well (not enough beer last night ?) so it
was 11 am before we were up and headed towards Gib. We passed a big Carrefour Supermarket on
the way so planned a visit on the way
back. And then we arrived in Gib, and it
is NOTHING like I imagined or Janet remembered – It is really a great little
place, and worthy of a holiday all on its own !!
Monday, 15 February 2016
0423 Chefchaouen Morocco to Tarifa Spain
15th
Feb 2016
Time to leave
Morocco
Well our great
idea of having a peaceful day exploring Chefchaouen and relaxing for Janet’s
birthday turned into a bit of a fizzer.
Over night on the 13th the weather turned very cold, with a
strong cold wind, and it started raining during the night. And it rained, and rained, and rained. By the time we woke up everything was pretty
sodden (outside – Inside we were snug and warm !), and almost the whole of the
day was windy, cold and wet. We thought
about packing up and leaving, but we had a few things to do around the van, so
we ended up staying as planned. But it
was too wet to even walk into Chefchaouen, so we didn’t explore it at all that
day.
Saturday, 13 February 2016
0422 Al Hoceima to Chefchaouen
Sat 13th
Feb 2016
Rif mountains,
haystacks, Rif coastline, and a night drive.
Woke up on the
beach, and headed off to check on Anita and Anton in their camp site in town –
They were just making coffee ! So we
climbed aboard their little home and had a good hour or so chatting about the
last few days before we left them to enjoy a second day in Al Hoceima while we
headed down the road. We had decided to
head towards the mountain village of Chefchaouen today, but to do so by going
first through the Rif Mountains, and then to drop down to the sea to enjoy the
Rif coastline that is supposed to be gorgeous, before hopefully stopping
overnight at a little coast town of Oued Laou.
Friday, 12 February 2016
0421 Bab Boudir to Al Hoceima
12th
Feb 2016
Caves, mountains,
dust storms and a night on the beach.
We awoke to a
cold and misty morning, so after a quick cup of tea and some breakfast inside
the van, we headed off down the mountain from Bab Boudir. And of course, not only did we pass a couple
of much nicer Aires just down the road, one right beside a lovely river, but
within 20 minutes of leaving our cold and misty camp site we were in warm
sunshine and increasingly blue skies !!!
Ah well………. So we went only a
little way down the road till we saw some caves we had read about signposted.
Thursday, 11 February 2016
0420 Fez to Bab Boudir
11th
Feb 2016
Sunshine, cork
trees, snow, and a night in the cold mountains !
After a lengthy
pack up as we chatted with some of our friends in the camp site, and a quick
(and frustrating) effort to get on the wifi in the office, we left Fez and
headed out on the road east towards Taza.
We had decided to head west towards Algeria, then turn not hint the Rif
mountains and valley which is supposed to be really beautiful, before heading
up to Chefchaouen and then finally Tanger, to catch our ferry back to
Spain. As usual, it was to be a day
packed with totally unexpected adventures !
Wednesday, 10 February 2016
0419 A day in Fez
10th
Feb 2016
Wandering through
one of the largest souks in the world
Having decided
last night to go on an organized tour of Fez, we were up and organized and at
the campsite office by 9.30, ready to head out.
There were 6 other people from the campsite on the tour with us – a
Dutch couple, a German couple, and a Swiss couple – So the tour van was full,
along with our guide Wafi and the driver.
And off we went to the hustle and bustle of Fez. Fes is much larger than
most of the towns we had been in recently, and is the oldest of the four imperial
cities in Morocco, founded in 789. The
entire city has been declared a World Heritage site.
Fez is really 3
cities in one - Fez el Bali (Old Fez)
was founded by Moulay Idriss II at the end of the 8th Century. At
the end of the 13th Century the Merenid Sultans added many jewels of
Hispano-Moorish architecture to the Old City and built Fez el Jdid (New Fez)
outside the walls. Then during the 20th
Century the French built a modern city, the Ville Nouvells, about 2 kms to the
west.
The two key buildings/institutions in Fez are
the Kairaouine Mosque that was built in 859 by refugees from Tunisia, and the Kairaouine
University founded near the same time and claiming to be one of the oldest
Universities in the world. And both of these are located in the Medina, or Old
City. But first we drove down the
majestic tree lined Avenue Hassan II, the main axis, and trying very hard to
emulate the Champs Elysée. We then
arrived at the Royal Palace, or Dar el-Makhzen, that was built in the 13th
Century. It has been totally renovated
but is not open to the public – One can only admire the 7 doors (one for each
day of the week) and their intricate brasswork.
Looking away from the palace one looks SW down the long wide avenue
towards Ave Hassan II.
Down the side of
the Palace is the Mellah, or Jewish quarter. Since the 14th Century
Fez has been a refuge for Jews, who in return always supported the Sultan. Very few Jews live here now, but the houses,
with big balconies looking out onto the street, are in marked contrast to the
Muslim styles. The spices and other
potions offered in store fronts along the road always delight, and fill the air
with their rich aromas. Wandering on down here with the immense Palace walls on
our left (with storks up on the parapets !), we went towards the Medina before
our car suddenly re-appeared and we jumped in to go somewhere else first !
Somewhere else
proved to be an old castle up on a hillside to the south of the Medina,
overlooking Fez, and providing spectacular views. The first thing you see are
the acres and acres of graves – This old cemetery is centuries old and is the
reason that Fez has never grown to the SE – The graves can never be
disturbed. The views from up here
enabled one to clearly see the Kairaouine Mosque with its enormous green tiled
roof and tall minaret, and also the original University building with its
pyramid shaped green tiled roof. Looking
across the Medina towards the northern hills, we could see the ruined towers
around the Merenid Tombs, and below them, dots of red on the ground, which were
the leather animal skins laid out during the beginning (and messier phase) of
their tanning process.
We then drove
down from the Borj Sud and went down to a pottery at the edge of the Medina.
The potter on the wheel was operating his wheel by foot, and stunned us when in
about 2 minutes he not only made the base of a small tajine, but , without any
measurements, then made a lid for it that fitted perfectly as soon as he cut it
off the wheel ! We then saw the process
for making and decorating their pottery, as well as the painstaking process of
chipping tiles into tiny pieces of specific shapes and colours so they could be
used to make up the mosaic tables and fountains – Or even whole buildings such
as the Royal Palace or the many Babs, or Gates around the city. Directly outside there were many leather
skins laid in the dirt, drying and curing.
The leather from Morocco is so prized and such good quality that the top
grade of hide (a goatskin used for bookbinding) is known worldwide simply as
“Morocco”.
We were then
driven a short distance to a tannery, normally a smelly and rather nasty place,
(due to the chief ingredients in the process – Pigeon poo and cow urine ) so
bad that visitors are handed a sprig of mint to waft under one’s nose to lessen
the impact ! We climbed up about 4
flights of stairs and came out on their roof top – Overlooking all the many dye
vats used for colouring the hides. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) this
tannery is currently completely renovating its vats, so they are all empty and
spotless – And odourless !! But it is
all part of the modernization and improvement of the industry to try to improve
the working conditions of the people who spend their lives up to their waists
in these vats. Coming back down from the
roof top we visited showrooms on each floor – top floor leather jackets, 1000’s
of them; next floor down shoes (mostly Moroccan babouches, the pointed slippers
everyone wears) and poufs, and ground floor handbags and carry bags ! Their inventory is enormous – Whether they
have the turnover to match, I don’t know.
But certainly some beautiful soft leatherwear to suit most tastes – Even
snakeskin type of jackets for people like Elvis !
From the tannery
we walked into and around the narrow alleyways of the Medina, following our
guide Wafi carefully because if one got left behind or lost in here, I am not
sure how one would ever get out ! It is
enormous, and just twists and turns in every direction. It was getting towards lunch time, so Wafi
took us to a little upstairs place where we had a very pleasant meal of tajines
and pastilla (a kind of pie), and various soups and dips. Very tasty, as is most of the food here in
Moroccco.
When we returned
back down into the narrow alleyways of the Medina, we were quickly reminded of
the hazards of this place when there were shouts of “balak”, or “look out”, and
suddenly 3 donkeys came hurrying through with vast loads of leather hides on
their backs that filled the alleyway – Pedestrians leap into doorways or shops
to try to keep from being trampled or squashed against the walls ! You have to be alert down here as not only
donkeys, but horses and motorbikes are frequently coming past !
We then went
through the narrowest and smallest street in the Medina – I had to crouch and
one is almost having to turn sideways to get through the narrowest parts, but
meanwhile children are rushing past, and men in their jelaba’s (hooded gowns)
are hurrying through ! It is just a
regular thoroughfare, after all !
It was then on
through the maze of alleyways – Chickens live in cages, being killed for each
buyer in the shop – Not the most pleasant shop for me ! Spice alleys, fruit and veggies (we bought
some beautiful broad beans for about 20 cents), and then the “silk” and garment
area. The ladies gowns etc are mostly for
weddings, but they are woven from a material that looks like silk, but is
actually made from fibres from the cactus – One that looks like an agave but is
bigger. Past leather bag shops, berber
carpet shops, woodworking shops (including coffins !), and on to a small square
and one of the many mosque entrances.
The enormous
Kairaouine mosque has almost been swallowed up by the Medina, being built all
around. As a result one unexpectedly
comes across entrances to the mosque all over the place as one wanders somewhat
blindly around the alleyways. On this
occasion we came across a very ornate doorway, and were allowed to peak into
the outer halls, while through a small gap in the roofs above us we could see a
small part of the green tiled minaret so we could work out roughly where we
were !
From there it was
on down to a carpet shop ! Moroccan
carpets in general, and Berber carpets in particular, are quite sought after,
although after the fine Iranian carpets we were used to in Dubai, they seemed
more like rougher tribal carpets to me – Still very nice, I like tribal
carpets, but not so finely made (ie less knots per sq inch). This building was once the hoe of a wealthy
local, and is 3 stores high with a roof top. The central roof would once have
been open to let breezes in, as well as the rain, so the floor is tiled, has a
drain in the middle of the floor and a raised section around the outside to
prevent any excess water entering the rest of the house. The roof is now
closed, but the narrow staircase takes you up the various floors to the roof –
where we had an amazing view out over the rooftops of the medina of Fez –
Mostly satellite dishes ! And in a room there were women weaving carpets. Women whose husbands have died or left them
have a hard time surviving, and this carpet co-operative gives work to such
women, ensuring they can make a living and carry on with their lives. Janet and the other ladies on the tour had a
go at weaving, but I think were more hindrance than help !! Amazing to see them at work on this laborious
task.
Then we were
taken back down to the ground floor where, after the customary mint tea, the
carpets were unrolled in front of us, to tempt us to part with our money. Since we were all camping, they weren’t ever
going to have much success, but for some reason I was singled out as “the man
most likely to buy”, and I was taken up to the top floor to see an array of
their “finest carpets” ! All very nice,
but somehow I managed to escape (I do like carpets, so it is hard !), joined
the others, and finally we all escaped back into the Medina.
More donkeys in
the alleyways, more views into Mosques, and finally into a perfume shop where
those interesting argan nuts that have been “processed” by goats were being
individually cracked by girls using stones, and then the kernels crushed to
obtain the oils. In this instance,
everyone was given a hand massage of argan oil, (very nice), and after a polite
“Merci, mais non” we all trouped out again !!
Poor traders were having a bad day with us !
Just down the
road we found a bakery, and on sticking our heads in found the baker down in a
pit in front of the oven, using a long spatula on a stick to put bread in or
take it out. A hot and dirty job (with
the charcoal or whatever they use), and in the summer must be a nightmare.
During our wanderings in the Medina we had several times been almost run over
by women carrying trays covered with towels – It turns out it is their
bread. By law no one can have their own
bread ovens in the Medina due to the danger of fire, so the women in each
family continue to make their bread each day, as is the custom, and then they
pop down with their uncooked loaves and hand them over to the baker who bakes
them in a central (and safe) location, and they then take the cooked bread home
! Very simple and logical, and keeps
everyone happy !
Our final stop was
a “silk” shop, where they weave the cloth made from the silk like fibres of the
cactus plant. With all their colourful wares hung on the walls, the building
was another of the older houses with an open roof and tiled floor, although now
the roof is closed over. We watched the
guys on the old wooden manual loom for a while, and then, instead of mint tea,
they dressed us all up in Berber scarves !
Good for a giggle, but in this case a couple of the girls fell for some
of the material, especially when the owner demonstrated how small he could fold
the material ! Janet was one of those
who succumbed, and we ended up walking out with a small bundle under our arms !
Now we were
finally done – It was after 6 pm and we came out of the Medina to find our
transport waiting for us to take us home through the traffic. Interestingly, they have mobile phone towers
around town here, and, like other places around the world, have tried to
disguise them s palm trees. But in this
case the fake “palm trees” even have fake “bunches of dates” hanging down
! Never seen that before !
We finally got
back to the camp site and after thanking our guide (and of course paying him
!), we walked down to our vans. On the
way we passed some caterpillars all in a circle, nose to tail. Remember those cobwebs hanging in fir trees
that I had posted photos of both in Spain and also a couple of places down here
? Well, we were told by our friend Jill
in Spain that these were “Processional Caterpillars” that form long lines nose
to tail, but we had never seen them.
Well here they were – Jill was right !
Only trouble for these ones was that they had formed a circle rather
than a line, and as a result were not going anywhere – Except round and round
in a circle ! I wonder how long it takes
the leader to realize he has been there before ! Anyway, we left them on the ground
(apparently they can be quite irritating if you touch them), and headed back to
the vans for a quick beer and chat, and then to turn in. We were exhausted – It had been a long day of
walking and exploring.
Pics are here :- https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/0419ADayExploringFez?authkey=Gv1sRgCO_LwI-VgZLYlwE
Pics are here :- https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/0419ADayExploringFez?authkey=Gv1sRgCO_LwI-VgZLYlwE
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