0328 Nr Geiranger to Trollstigvegen

15^th August 2015

Majestic Fjords, big waterfalls and Trolls !

It was looking a bit overcast and very windy when we woke up, so we packed up fairly quickly in case it decided to rain. There is an odd “warm” wind blowing at the moment, which to me means “unsettled weather”, but all the Norwegians are happy that it is at last warm – They have apparently had such a wet and poor summer so far that tourist numbers are down – So a little warmth and sunshine is very welcome. So we set off down the road towards Geiranger, stopping 10 minutes down the road at a little bridge we had spotted yesterday.  Unfortunately the sign was all in Norwegian so apart from the year of 1860 written on the plaque, which we assume was the build date, we are none the wiser – The sign just said “Knuten” which for all I know may just mean “bridge “ !!

We already knew how spectacular the drive down into Geiranger and the fjord would be after our foretaste yesterday when we climbed up the 1500 m peak of Dalsnibba, but it got even better than expected as we dropped the last few hundred meters into Geiranger.  Apart from glimpses through the trees as we drove, we first found a lookout beside the road where a number of coaches had stopped – There was a German cruise ship in port and judging by the language we deduce they were mostly off the ship.  A short walk down the road got us away from most of the crowds and there was another

lookout further down, this time one which actually overhangs the gorge below.  When standing on the rock you cannot tell, but when you go back up to the original lookout you can see it quite clearly – Scary !! 

We then drove on down into Geiranger which is quite a nice little town, albeit totally over run by tourists.  Today is Saturday so in addition to all the European motorhomes and cars, and the people off the cruise ship, there were also quite a lot of Norwegians enjoying the fine weather over the weekend.  So once we had looked around

the few shops (all of which seem to carry the same tourist stuff), we drove back up the hill a a little way to the local Tourist Office where there is a walk way all the way down beside a waterfall that drops several hundred feet down to the fjord, and is really quite spectacular.  When we came back up, there was a basket ball that some kid had dropped in the water which was going round and round in an eddy at the top – We christened it Wilson a la Tom Hanks when he was shipwrecked !  Suddenly it got out of its eddy, and after a couple of false starts, took off down the falls.  I would like to have seen it coming down the main falls, but I wasn’t about to walk all that way back down there !

After farewelling Wilson, we drove out through town along the side of the fjord, and then started up the switchback road to Eidsdal that we had seen from the other end of the valley yesterday, and what incredible views all the way up and at a viewpoint at the top – Not only looking back towards Geiranger, but also looking west round the corner of the fjord as it wound its way back towards the sea.  The German cruise ship was a speck at the end of the fjord, but the view on round the corner was superb.  Once we had our fill of the view, and had a quick word with a Polish Troopie that was also 

parked there, we headed off across a plateau that then dropped away down towards a lake where we stopped for lunch, in wide open farming country.  Norway really is a land full of contrasts, and the scenery changes so quickly.  We have not seen many (any ?) wild life, despite their many posters and badges and information about moose, bear, wolverines, deer, foxes, and much more, including birds, of which we have seen hardly any.  So far the most exciting wildlife has been the rabbit yesterday !!  So today when we saw a large number of something crossing the road in

the distance we wondered if they were one of these lesser seen animals.  No luck – Goats !!   Hundreds of them !  We had to wait several minutes while they all crossed the road.  Then not 500 metres further down the road were 3 cows just standing in the middle of the road chatting, and they did not move a hoof as we and several others squeezed past them ! 

After lunch by the windy lake, we dropped down through a sloping glaciated valley on the Eagle’s Way to the pleasant little township of Eidsdal.  Our ferry was just pulling in so we hardly had time to stop our engine and pay the

ferry man (despite being told not to until he gets us to the otherside) before we drove aboard and set off on the short ride across, landing just outside Valldal.  There was a lovely white Cadillac Convertible with red seats on board – And the passengers were almost the same colour as the seats from the sunshine of the past couple of days !!  Valldal was very touristy, and the camp site in town (as well as a couple of others not far out of town) were absolutely packed solid – Mostly long termers, so Norwegians on the summer vacation presumably.  Also people swimming in the (cold) water, and generally enjoying the fine weather. 

But we headed north on Trollstigvegen – Or Trolls Path.  The books all said this was a great drive, and they weren’t wrong.  Strawberry fields are everywhere up here, and there are lots of booths set up beside the road to sell them – And they are good – We have sampled some already !  Just 15 minutes up the road we came to the little town of Alstad where they have the Gudbrandsjuvet – A series of Kettle holes where the river opening is almost closed over at the surface while the river flows through a series of holes or kettles underneath.  We went for a walk on the walkway over the river, and it certainly is different !

After a photo with a strawberry seller, we started to climb and within 20 minutes we were in a mountainous area with bare rocks everywhere. We stopped up at the top and were mesmerized by the surrounding mountains, with names like the King, The Queen, the

Bishop, and also the Troll Procession !  This is a mountaineer’s paradise up here, and local cars are parked everywhere with people off hiking or rock climbing. Just spectacular scenery all around.  We then came down the hill a little way until we reached Trollstigen where there is a large information centre – And walks out round the cliffs to lookout points jutting out from the rock. 

The walks are just amazing – The cliff drops off the edge of the plateau almost vertically, with the zig zagging road visible below, and several waterfalls around us dropping hundreds of feet to the valley below. You just don’t quite know where to look next. So we eventually went back to the centre, had an ice cream, and jumped in the car to drive down the amazing road !  And it was equally good driving down it as it was to see it from the mountain top – Just an incredible road.  Sorry about  all the superlatives but we are really seeing some incredible sights up here in Norway, and in many cases words fail us. 

Another 30 minutes down the vally we decided to stop for the night at the Trollstigen Camp Site – We are surrounded by Trolls !!    As they are nocturnal, we hope to maybe see some tonight………..

Tomorrow we will drive the few kms into Andalsnes, and then make our way round fjords and over them on ferries to the town of Molde, from where we intend to travel up the fjord coastline towards  Kristiansund and Trondheim.

Other pics are here :-  https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/0328NrGeirangenToTrollstigen?authkey=Gv1sRgCIa3naWLjIS6AQ