Friday 21 August 2015

0333 Bronnoysund to Stokkvagen


20th Aug 2015
Ferries, Ferries and Sunshine.

We are starting to get concerned as to how long this perfect weather can last – One guy told us 6 days, but that was 3 days ago.  And today someone told us it is supposed to continue for another 2 weeks !   We hope it does, because it is absolutely unbelievable, but if it doesn’t …..well, we have had a good run !   But tonight we are camped beside a fjord at latitude N66.31962, and the Arctic Circle is at 66.30  So we are maybe 15 kms south of the article circle, it is 7 pm, there is not a cloud in the sky, the sun is still shining, and we are wearing shorts !  This is just unbelievable – I mean we are not exactly virgins when it comes to crossing the Arctic Circle, having done it 4 times in Alaska and Canada, and each time we KNEW we were in the Arctic.  This time it is more like an English summers day – Warm in the day, a light breeze, and then as the evening draws on it gets quite chilly – So you rug up in a warm sleeping bag and get a good nights sleep, waking in the morning ready for another day of endless sunshine, incredible scenery, and fun exploring new places that you didn’t even know existed 24 hours ago !!  Tough life, but I guess someone has to do it !!


We had a frustrating night last night computer wise – A fairly expensive campsite (aren’t they all in Norway ?!), but it had wifi that seemed to work OK.  But after some time we gave up – Impossible to load up pics into Picasa.  So if you wonder why you are getting just the writing, that is why – The pics are so S-L-O-W at loading, I just haven’t got enough hours in the day, or patience, to upload them.  I will catch up eventually, and you need to see these pics of Norway in the sunshine – They are absolutely unbelievable.

Anyway, filled up the water tank this morning and set off down the road towards Bronnoysund.  Olav, the camp site manager, had told us last night that we needed to make a 25 km detour off the main road to Torghatten – A mountain that has a hole in it !!  Entering Bronnoysund we had to cross yet another amazing bridge – You have to hand it to these Norwegians – They really do build some incredible bridges and tunnels !!   Wound our way through the village, spotted diesel for 11.98 per litre (about $2 Aus) and planned to get some on the way back, and then headed out down the country roads, eventually finding the car park requiring a 1 km walk to Torghatten.  So off we set, only to find that it was no “stroll”, but rather a I km hike up a steep rocky trail !  Oh well, guess we need the exercise !

Eventually reached the top, and sure enough there was a hole in the mountain !  Looking down to the other side you could see the rocks and ocean – There was a walk down to the other side, as indeed there was a 6 km walk round the entire mountain, but our plans today were to try and get north towards Bodo – A long walk in the country wasn’t on the agenda !!  

So after spying the hole, we descended, meeting some people from Barcelona en route which enable me to lapse back into Spanish momentarily, and then we headed back to the main road.   Unfortunately in the intervening hour the gas station had put its price up to 12.06 per litre, but as this is way cheaper than elsewhere, we took the opportunity to top off the tanks before heading north.  

Back over the amazing bridge, and then it was only 30 mins before we reached Holm and our first ferry crossing for the day.  This island route we are following has some 9 or 10 ferry crossings, as we wander up the coast, and it is a bot expensive, but we decided that following the central main road north would be just a tad too boring !!  When we arrived at the ferry it was lunch time, and before the ferry arrived we had time to make our lunch – Just finishing it as the ferry came into view – Perfect timing.  Just a short ferry ride across to Anndalsvagen, and then a short run up to Folvik where we caught our 2nd (and longer (50 minutes)) ferry up to Tjotta.  From there it was a longer drive this time up to the next ferry, but equally scenic with mountains, fjords, and forests all around.  And the blue skies and sunshine just made the views spectacular – On the ferries all the Norwegians kept saying to us “You are so lucky” or “It is not normally like this” !!   Funnily enough we met some Italians on a motorcycle who have been here 3 times before, and they said they have had perfect weather every time they come !!  

When we got off the third ferry in Nesna at about 4.30. we had to climb through a small pass between fjords, and when we got to the top, the views in the afternoon sunshine were just superb. We then wove our way round the edges of more jfjords for a while, and then suddenly came upon this car park with car bays all laid out and hardly a soul there.  PERFECT.   So in the late afternoon sunshine, we set up camp, had some Norwegian salmon for dinner, and made our way on through another 3 litre flagon of Chilean red wine (the cheapest way to drink in Norway !!
  
Pics here :-  https://picasaweb.google.com/110185357936043625130/0333BronnoysundToStokkvagen?authkey=Gv1sRgCPa1laSY78DGKA

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