Thursday 15 October 2015

0380 Lake Como to Tirano


12th Oct 2015
Lakes, windy roads, and almost in Switzerland.

We ended up staying a second night beside Lake Como because it was just very pleasant, and it is always good to stop occasionally for a few hours.  It was a sunny day, so we enjoyed a cooked breakfast for the first time in a while, and then just lazed about, catching up on things that needed doing.  In the afternoon we went for a walk into the local village, taking our life in our hands as we walked along the narrow road where there is no sidewalk, or even any room for one – You walk along single file and keep your eye on the traffic.  The motorcycles you can usually hear coming, so they are not the problem !  We wandered in the little village, bought a gelati and enjoyed it sitting on a bench overlooking the lake, and then wandered back to the camp site.  A pleasant and quiet day.


Monday morning was a bit overcast, but still no rain for a while, so we slowly packed up and prepared to head towards Bellagio.  Not sure where George Clooney lives, but it is somewhere round here – But I think he would arrive by helicopter !! We eventually set off and headed north along the arm of the lake towards Bellagio – This road is seriously narrow in places, and you just have to be ready to meet anything – coaches, cement trucks, or bikes and Fiat 500’s on the wrong side of the road…….!!

We came into Bellagio at about 10.30 am, and after missing the turning, doubled back and dropped down through an archway into the small town.  We found a parking spot that we could fit into (not always easy in these little towns as we are quite long since I have spare wheels and my bike on the back) and went for a wander through the little town.  Needless to say, it is very upmarket with plenty of expensive clothes, wine, and jewelry shops everywhere, plus of course many hotels, restaurants, and coffee shops.  There are steep alleyways leading up from the water front, lined with more shops, and overall it is very pleasant.  For a change there were not too many tourists around, so we had quite a pleasant half hour exploring. 

At the far end of the town was the very exclusive Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni – All big gates and “Guests Only” type of place.  Outside on the wall is a menu for their waterfront restaurant, equally expensive and exclusive……Yet the blurb for the restaurant looks like it has been written by a 3rd former who missed English lessons year 2 due to chicken pox !!   What can’t places that are so exclusive afford (or is it “bother” ?) to hire someone who can speak and write English so that their forms don’t bring a wry smile to people’s faces ?  Maybe I should hire out my services……..?

Back down through town, it was a pleasant morning, and we stopped for coffee at a little waterside café before heading back to the car.  At the car, various people were looking at the car and taking photos, a couple of them being from a nearby restaurant – The Carillon.  After they returned to the restaurant, I wandered over to one of them for a chat, and the guy greeted me with a big smile and invited me back to his little restaurant / bar for a prosecco.  His name was Nando, he owned the restaurant, and had actually met his wife Eveline in Sydney Australia back in New Year 2001 – She was in fact from Verona, and on holiday in Australia like he was, so it was ironic that they should meet there and they have a soft spot for Australia.  Nando welcomed us into his little restaurant and we had a good chat about things for half an hour or so.  A very pleasant interlude – Thank you Nando, and good luck to you for the future.  Anyone going to Bellagio should go to his restaurant for a drink / coffee / meal, and if you mention Australia you never know what might happen !

Eventually we managed to escape from several other passers by who wanted to chat about our trip, and we headed out of town.  I spotted an underground boat harbour – This is quite common round here due to lack of space, but in this instance there were a number of nice looking boats parked in there.  No Riva Aquaramas (my all time favourite wooden hulled boat from the 1960’s that are typical Lake Como “runabouts” worth about $1 million nowadays !) but some nice boats, all the same.

As we drove on round the edge of the lake towards Como, it really is a very beautiful spot on this earth, but the roads are so winding and narrow, one can only imagine what it must be like in August around here !  I think everyone would travel by boat or water taxi if they had any sense !   We were lucky in that only once did we get a big 40 seater coach in front of us which slowed everything down because it had to stop in every small village when the roads got too narrow for ongoing traffic to pass.  Can you imagine when the coaches are everywhere ??   Yuk.

On round through Como itself at the SW end of the lake, where the road then turned north again and we continued to follow it on up beside the lake.  As mentioned, it really is very beautiful, but after an hour or two, it all becomes a bit repetitive.  Yes the Lake is beautiful.  Yes, the road it amazing.  Yes, the houses are charming.  But eventually we just blurr – And start to wonder about mountains and Switzerland.  If I was going to come to Lake Como for a holiday, I would need to have a house on the water, arrive by sea plane, and have a little speed boat in order to get around to restaurant’s and stuff (there are no beaches, remember !!).  If one could do it like that, then I am sure one could have a very pleasant week or two, but if one had to use the roads or normal transport, I think it might all get a bit too much after a day or so !!  Just IMHO, of course…….

We stopped for lunch at about 2.30 pm at a sunny parking spot beside the lake – Only to find there was quite a chilly breeze blowing !  So we rugged up and made our sandwiches, feeding some local swans and ducks while we ate.  Shortly after that, we found ourselves on a slightly wider road a bit higher up from the edge of the lake, but decided that was fine – We had had enough of the snail trail along the edge of the lake !  We eventually reached the northern end of the lake, and turned eastwards along the edge of the Swiss border and the Alps, towards Sondrio.  It was a busy and industrial road, so not a lot to see, although it was nice to see some light snow up on the mountain tops – Mountains and snow always bring a smile to my face !
We stopped for fuel (how much is fuel in Switzerland ? Should we refill in Italy first ? Will they accept Euro’s in Switzerland if we camp there ?) and also found a Carrefour
supermarket so decided to stock up there too, and soon after that we came into a little village called Tirano, where we were due to turn north and head into the Alps and into Switzerland (we are heading for San Moritz).  But since it was past 5 pm, and we saw a sign to a camp site, we decided to stop, and tackle the Alps and the 2300 m Bernina Pass fresh tomorrow.  It turned out to be just a town camp site with no real facilities, but at least nice and clean and official, but that was fine for us tonight.  So we stopped, cracked open a beer and some hors d’oeuvres, and settled in for the night.  

A tough day negotiating Lake Como.  A beautiful spot, really enjoyed seeing it, but glad I am here in October and not August !  There are other places that are more scenic and inviting in our opinion – Lago di Garda being just one of them.  Unless of course you have a nice house like Mr Clooney, then I am sure it could be very pleasant here !!

On to St Moritz and a little luge work tomorrow………… 


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