Friday 16 October 2015

0381 Tirano Italy to Zurich Switzerland


13th October 2015
“When the snow falls you’re found in St Moritz, with the others of the Jet set.
You sip your Napoleon Brandy, but you never get your lips wet…..
Where do you go to my Lovely …….?”

Woke up to a pretty wet and miserable morning at the foothills of the Alps – But at least it stopped raining while we packed up, and had a dry breakfast. It wasn’t far to the “border”, and at 9 am, in the mist and the rain, we came across the old border buildings out of Italy and then in to Switzerland.  Unlike so many of the other EU borders we have crossed, there were actually people in the border post, although they waved us straight through and there were no delays.  Trucks were being pulled over and inspected though – Looking for refugees hiding in the back, I presume. 


We were already climbing when we crossed the border, and we continued to climb afterwards as we passed a lake.  Within half an hour we were up at 1900 metres, and it was raining quite heavily, while the temperature dropped to 6 degrees C.  On the plus side, the autumn colours of the leaves on the trees were suddenly superb – Prior to the Alps we had really seen very little evidence of a European autumn, and had been a little disappointed.  Now they were turning every autumn colour you could think of.  We went through a great pass with snow poles along the way, but the cloud cover was so low we couldn’t see much of the scenery.

We dropped into St Moritz, set out beside a lake – I wonder if it freezes over so they can skate on it in the winter ?  We drove around the town – A lot of concrete and expensive name-brand boutique shops, and not especially attractive, but I am sure it is gorgeous when the snow falls.  Lots of big hotels, including the Grand Hotel Kempinski, which has probably been there for ever.  Cable cars were running up the mountain sides despite there not yet being any snow, and there was lots of work going on on the roads, as well as on buildings, as if they knew the snow was coming soon, and they had to get everything finished beforehand !    Quite exciting, actually. 

Suddenly off to the side we saw a statue of a man with a bob sled, and then a “Restaurant Cresta Run”. Following the road out of town we saw this stone wall – And suddenly realized it was part of the Cresta Run, and we were driving on it in Troopie !!  That’s a first !!   Once we realized where we were, we pulled over and went for a walk along the track – It is very hard to believe this is the Cresta Run – At the moment it is just a grassy track and stone walls.  It is only the wooden footbridges over the track that give it away, although I am sure that once they have the snow and the ice it transforms
it.  After walking round part of the track, we went back up to the village and found the start – Which is very unprepossessing and in the middle of town !  The Cresta Run was first used in 1885, so is now 130 years old. 

After driving all over town in the rain, we then headed out towards Davos and Klosters – We decided we might as well see all these famous ski resorts while we were here !  Within 15 minutes of leaving St Moritz we crossed the top of the Julierpasse at 2284 metres – again in low cloud and rain.  Shame really, as the scenery through here is supposed to be stunning…… Instead we stopped near the top of the pass and went in to an Inn for a hot chocolate and some Apfel Strüdel – Which was delicious, but VERY expensive – Welcome to Switzerland !!

From there we dropped down into Davos, which is not a very pretty town – Much new concrete.  We found out later that there was a major fire here some years ago that destroyed much of the old town, with the result that most of the buildings are new.  The impact is increased because on the road between San Moritz and Davos are some delightful old villages, with buildings of typical Swiss design – and of course always with the flower boxes on the verandah of almost every house.  And we drove on some really narrow country lanes for much of the way, which was interesting, as always – The locals seem to stare at us as we pass through, wondering what on earth we are doing out here in the countryside !

After driving around in a fairly damp and gloomy Davos for a while, we stopped beside their lake just outside town and had a sandwich, then we headed out of town to our last resort – Klosters.  This is where the English Royal Family usually come for their ski holidays, so we decided we would have a look while we were in the area.  Klosters is a much more typical Swiss ski town with more traditional buildings, and is in a beautiful setting in a valley – Would love to have seen it with snow !


After Klosters, we headed for Zurich where we were to visit with Michael and Simone who we had met on the road in South America.  We looked for a campsite near where they live, but the nearest one was closed for the winter.  In fact the gates were open and we were going to camp there, but it was raining and pretty miserable so we decided to see if we could find Michael and Simone’s apartment and make plans from there.  Surprisingly we did find their place, and Michael said we were more than welcome to stay with them – He couldn’t have been more welcoming (Simone was at work).  In fact they even moved out of their room to make us more comfortable – We could not have been made to feel more welcome. Once Simone arrived home, we enjoyed a delightful dinner with wine and even grappa – And went to bed exhausted !

The next morning after Simone had gone to work, we headed into Zurich on the bus / tram.  It was cool, but fortunately the rain of the previous day had stopped and wandering around in town was enjoyable.  We went into the old part of Zurich, saw the largest clock tower face in Europe on St Peter’s, and then wandered down into the financial district where companies like UBS and Zurich Insurance are located, and on to Fraumünster Abbey – Which was founded in 853 AD and a Benedictine convent.  Inside the Abbey are stain glass windows by Marc Chagall, while outside is……a mess !  The square outside was being dug up to put in



an underground car park – But unfortunately (for the car park people) they found the remains of a chapel from 1300 as well as some burial sites down there -  End of car park plans !!  They are now running tours through the excavations instead !!





We then wandered down through town until we came to a small alleyway with a restaurant type place alongside called the Sternen Grill, and LOTS of people.  Turns out it is a well known Zurich place that sells Bratwürst and bread and beer and is kind of a local institution.  They claim to sell the “original ”Bratwürst” but I think there might be a few Germans who might disagree with that !  Whatever, they were really good – Certainly the best in Zurich !!
  


From there we wandered down past the Opera House to Lake Zurich, which we enjoyed in the sunshine before heading to the Confiserie Sprüngli – A chocolate shop that also sells macarons – They even have a branch in Dubai airport !   Anyway, Michael bought some of these for later, we did a quick shop for some things for supper, and then we caught the bus back to their home. 





Once Simone was home from work, we had raclette for supper with the special cheese melted in a special machine and combined with mushrooms and ham and onions etc before pouring it over steamed potatoes.  I had never done this before, and as I like my cheese, I thoroughly enjoyed the evening – As did everyone else.  But Simone had to work again in the morning, and we had to hit the road north, so eventually we staggered off to bed after enjoying at lest a couple of bottles of wine with the meal, before finishing off with the macarons. 

A great couple of days in Zurich with Michael and Simone – our friends from Ushuaia.  It was so good to catch up with them and spend some time with them again.  I wonder which continent we will meet on next time – Australia ? 


No comments:

Post a Comment