Sunday 13 September 2015

0356 Panavezys to Vilkaviskis


13th Sept 2015
A tough day, almost ending up in Russia !

Janet enjoyed the residual heat from the sauna from last night – I preferred a normal shower – Too hot for me !  After buying some cheese from the local supermarket in the hotel / restaurant whose facilities we were in last night, we headed south, towards Vilnius.  We had no specific reason to got to Vilnius other than the fact that it is the capital of Lithuania – We have no guide book for the Baltic States, so we decided to head into Vilnius to the Information Centre and proceed from there.  Sunday, nice and quiet traffic wise, should be no problem, right ?     Wrong !!


To go to Vilnius we had to go somewhat out of our way, for a couple of reasons.  If you look at a map, you will see that the Russian / Belarus border is quite close in the east – We keep seeing signs to Minsk etc – and in addition there is another little piece of Russia on the Baltic coast, where the city of Kaliningrad is located.  And there is a fairly narrow “neck” between the two Russia’s, with only one major road coming down through the middle.  And Vilnius is not on that central road – it is tucked away in a little crook of Belarus. But to see Vilnius, this was a minor inconvenience.

However, on arriving in Vilnius, and getting in near the centre without a problem, we suddenly came upon MASSIVE traffic jams.  Not just traffic jams, but fenced off roads, cars parked everywhere, and coaches, 100’s of them, everywhere.  What on earth was going on ?  And of course the information centre we were trying to reach was well in behind all the fenced off roads, and there was no where we could park in order to leg it in.  At one point, after maybe an hour, we got close enough to see runners – It must be the Vilnius or Lithuanian Annual Marathon or something.  We tried going round the back to get in from the other side, we tried going every which way, but each time we seemed to end up where we had started from, and in the traffic jam !  After a couple of hours we gave up – I am afraid the sights of Vilnius will have to wait for another day !

Getting out of Vilnius I headed down the road I thought would take us back to the main road south, until suddenly Janet realized that that road went through a tiny corner of Belarus that stuck out into Lithuania !  Oh NO !!!  So we had no choice but to back track towards Vilnius, and then head NW towards Kaunas.  Because Kaunas was not really on our schedule, when I spied a short cut of avoiding the city, to turn south, I did so – Unfortunately Janet decided she wanted to see Kaunas !  After a slight discussion, we headed into Kaunas, only to find it was really a pretty dismal place, or what we saw of it was, and after driving around for a while and getting lost a couple of times, we called it quits and left.  NOT a successful day today for exploring cities ! 

Lithuania is very rural – As usual we tried to keep off the main roads where possible, and this led us onto dirt roads several times – Some of which were good, and a couple of which were diabolical and caused us to turn around and retrace our steps back to the main road. But in general the smaller roads are so much more interesting, so it is worth looking for them.  We saw small markets in a square in one village, and a lot of older style wooden houses in many places – Some just raw wood, while others were brightly painted in green or red or yellow.  And at one point we even saw a couple of deer in a field – The first wildlife we have seen for a while.  Even road kill has been pretty scarce recently, although today we did see 3 or 4 foxes. 

And naturally, with the Russian border so close, we were seeing increasing numbers of Russian trucks and cars on the road, while in Vilnius the trolley buses were real Soviet style – ie looked as though they were built in 1960 ! 

Finally we had had enough, and started to look for a camp site, but, typical of today, they were in short supply !  We decided to stop before we reached Poland, partly because we have no currency, and being a Sunday not much is open.  We eventually found a couple of places marked on the map as camping n a road a few kms off to the west from Marijampole towards Vilkaviskis.  The first one was in a forest and was obviously a gathering spot for the local lads, with lots of rubbish and old fires everywhere.  The next one was in the little town of Vilkaviskis, and was a “proper” camp site, but no one was around – We knocked on doors but they were all out.  So we went to explore another place just 5 kms away round the other side of the lake that is beside Vilkaviskis, but this was just a tarmac parking area for picnic and not that nice, so we decided to go back to the “official” camp site and stay there.

Still no one there, so we set up camp and were just relaxing when someone finally arrived.  The facilities aren’t the best (ie minimal !), but since we are pretty well self sufficient, that is not a major issue.  So here we are in this little camp site in SW Lithuania, about 10 kms from the Russian border in the west, 15 kms from the Polish border in the south, and about 50 kms from the Belarus border in the east.  Tomorrow we intend to head south towards Warsaw, but making a detour to the Treblinka Memorial.  We also have a friend we met in South America in Warsaw so look forward to having a cup of coffee with him before we head on into central Europe.


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