0357 Vikaviskis Lithuania to Treblinka Poland

14^th Sept 2015

A drive to Treblinka……

Our misgivings about the facilities in the camp site at Vilkaviskis were totally unfounded.  When I stuck my head out in the morning I was greeted with a “Hey, Australlia” call from the owner, and went over to him for a chat (despite lack of Polish on my part and lack of English on his part).  He then took me over to the house, which was partly a restaurant, and we went downstairs.  There he showed me a very nice double shower, a sauna (including psychedelic lights, and a toilet, and told me it was specially for our use !  Obviously when they have a restaurant booking it includes use of the sauna, and as the restaurant was empty, it was for us to use.  Turned out the shower was one of the nicest in a long time, although we didn’t get the sauna cranked up, and when we eventually hit the road we were more than happy with this little camp site, despite our initial misgivings.   It was cold though !   And the clear blue sky we woke up to quickly became very overcast with a high wind, so we packed up quickly and headed on our way.

We went into Marijampole in order to find some fuel, and on doing so found a delightful little town.  We even managed to find an Information Office, and got a brochure on Lithuania, and all the things we hadn’t seen in Vilnius and elsewhere.   It looks like there are some great things to see in Lithuania – for one reason or another we just hadn’t.  That doesn’t worry us – You cannot do everything and if you leave something undone it makes a good reason to return one day !   As for fuel, we found some at €0.99 a litre, which was some 4 cents cheaper than we had found anywhere else, so we were happy.   On leaving Marijampole we had to go a little way on a minor road before we joined up with the main road to Warsaw – And when we did, there were SO many trucks – Never seen so many almost nose to tail all day, they outnumbered the cars 2 or 3 to 1.

Soon after joing the main road we started to see LOTS of gas stations – I mean maybe 15 over a kilometer or two – And all selling diesel at about €1.03 per litre.   They say that when you see lots of gas stations before a border, then the cost of fuel on the other side of the border is probably higher – And seeing we had full tanks, we didn’t have to worry.  We came to the border and the first think we saw was a tall “observation” tower on a hill – Hmmmmm !  Didn’t seem to be anyone in it, but……….

Then we came to the border post – And it was kind of ….austere ?  Paint was peeling from seemingly deserted buildings, and we were looking out for people waving at us to stop.  Then we came round a corner, and there was a police van in the middle of OUR side of a dual carriageway, lights flashing.  Were the Polish police on to us already ?  Had we broken the law in the first 300 yards in Poland ?  Were we speeding, unaware of some 20 kmh limit through the border ?  Apparently not, for we drove right past the flashing lights without being stopped….or followed.  Phew.  They may be in the EU, but old habits die hard. 

Just past the flashing lights, we came to another equally austere building – Ah – Polish customs – We weren’t even in Poland yet – Only in No-Man’s land !  Once again the buildings seemed empty, but I am sure if walls could talk, they would have a story or two to tell from the past !

A couple of towns later we went into Augustow in order to find some Zlotys.  Every where in the Baltic States has used Euro, but Poland has kept its currency and we needed some.  We found out that ATM’s here are called Bankomats, and we started searching for one – After a couple of false starts, we found one in the main square – And of course we then saw about 6 more !!  So no problem getting Zlotys !

A while later we drove through Grajewo, and it wasn’t THAT big a town – but the Police station sure was  - I only got half of it in the photo as I drove past, but it was enormous.  One can only wonder what used to go on in there ……

Next item of surprise down the road was a grave yard, and it was massive – We have seen several big ones recently, but this was enormous.  We can only deduce that many of these small towns lost a lot of people during the many wars that have engulfed Poland over the years, and many of them have grave stones.  Additionally, many of these villages are very old, so maybe just many of them have had a lot of people die over the years !  Either way, this was a big graveyard that went all the way over a hill and back down the other side. Moving…..

By now we were starting to approach Treblinka, the site of a big labour and extermination camp in 1941 -2.  Crossing railway lines that had perhaps brought people to the camp was a bit moving, and when we turned off the main road and were on an old concrete road, it added to the feeling.  Then we had a spot of bother because they were putting in a new road – and the turning into the Treblinka Memorial Site was on the other side of the new road – With no way of crossing !  Eventually we got up onto the new (and still closed) new road, and drove back to the turn off into the forests of Treblinka.

As far as Treblinka Memorial is concerned, I do not feel that I want to or can write about it.  Suffice it to say that the whole afternoon was very moving emotionally, and the sheer extent of the camp defies belief.  It was only really in operation for one year, and yet managed to exterminate over 800,000 people.  Work that out on a daily basis.   Set out in the forest, a lot of the actual historical location of buildings etc is questionable since all evidence of the camp was destroyed.  However recent aerial surveys have shown more detail, and a lot of further research is still underway.   The symbolic railway line and platform are especially thought provoking while the symbolic cremation sites and graves just make you want to weep.   As the monument says, “Never again”.  I read something somewhere recently that said something like “If we do not remember the people who have sacrificed their lives in the past, what was the point of them ever living?”.  How true is that in a place like this ?  

I will let the photos do the talking, with their captions.  Words are insufficient.

Lastly, and somewhat weirdly, we find ourselves camped tonight INSIDE Treblinka Extermination camp !  By the time we were ready to leave, it was getting late, so we asked the Museum Curator (who lives on site) whether he knew of any camp sites in the area.  And he said we were more than welcome to sleep in the parking area, under the trees, at the entrance to the camp.  Hmmm,  once again, words don’t explain it, but this is really odd sleeping here.  I never ever expected to do this !

Pics are here :-